Since their initial launch in 2016, Apple has released nine iteration of the AirPods, from the now iconic white earbuds, to the upgraded AirPods Pro, to the the AirPods Max, Apple’s pricey take on over-the-ear headphones. Whatever the model, however, these things are meant to be simple: You open the case, tap a prompt on your iPhone, and presto, your AirPods are ready to go.
Despite their ease of use, however, AirPods are packed with features and settings you can adjust to your liking. Here are 10 hacks you should know if you own a pair Apple’s headphones, whether standard, Pro, or Max. (A note: Whenever I refer to “AirPods settings” in this article, I am generally referring to the options that appear in the first page of the Settings app on iOS and iPadOS, or the System Settings on macOS, when you’re wearing your AirPods.)
I’ve had a few AirPods in my day, and every time I set up a new pair, I turn on “Off” mode. That might read strange, but it’s a real thing. Depending on your AirPods model, you might have the option to use Noise Cancellation, which, of course, blocks outside noise; Transparency, which pumps in the sounds around you; or Off, which activates neither. This last choice ends up being great for times you want some noise blockage, but want to preserve the battery of your AirPods. Though I can’t speak to AirPods 4 With Noise Cancellation, the Pros and the Max do a good job with this without active noise cancellation.
While this option is always present when switching noise modes from Control Center, by default, Apple doesn’t include it from switching modes from the stem (or the noise control button on the AirPods Max). If you try to switch, you’ll only move between Noise Cancellation and Transparency. To include “Off” in this list, you’ll need to dig into your AirPods’ settings. Scroll down to “Press and Hold AirPods,” then choose either “Left” or “Right,” depending on which AirPods you want to adjust. Here, make sure “Off” is selected to add it to the noise control rotation.
Like any other tiny tech, your AirPods will go missing eventually. Mine slip out of my pockets all the time, and usually end up on the floor or under couch cushions. In such cases, you can waste your time retracing your steps and calculating the physics of where your AirPods would have landed, or you could use Find My to find them much faster.
Find My has a few ways to locate your missing AirPods. The first is the most obvious: When you open the app and choose the “Devices” tab, you’ll see your AirPods last-known location on the map. If you left them behind at, say, someone’s house, you’ll likely see that here, and know to stop looking under your own furniture. But if you’re already in the location Find My says your AirPods are, you have two more tools to pinpoint their whereabouts.
First, you can use “Find” to get step-by-step instructions on where your AirPods are. If you have AirPods Pro 2 or 3, you’ll even have an arrow pointing you in their direction. If you still can’t find them, you can tap “Play Sound” to play a sound out of any loose AirPod. If you have AirPods 4 with Active Noise Cancellation, AirPods Pro 2, or AirPods Pro 3, you can play a sound on the case itself.
AirPods work best with Apple devices, but that doesn’t mean they’re exclusive. You can connect your AirPods to any device that supports Bluetooth, which gives the headphones some added flexibility. I primarily use mine with my iPhone, Mac, and Apple TV, but I also connect them directly to the TV itself to use them with my PS5. (Sony’s console doesn’t support Bluetooth audio, for some reason.)
The thing is, there’s no obvious way to connect your AirPods to non-Apple devices. You’d only know if you looked up how to put your particular AirPods model into “pairing mode.” This bypasses Apple’s usual pairing system, and opens up your AirPods to any available Bluetooth source. Here’s how to kick your AirPods into pairing mode:
AirPods 1, 2, or 3, or AirPods Pro 1 or 2: Place your AirPods in the case, open the lid, then press and hold the button on the back for five seconds, or until the light starts flashing white.
AirPods 4 or AirPods Pro 3: Place your AirPods in their case, hold the case next to the Bluetooth device, then double-tap the front of the case. The light should start flashing white.
AirPods Max; Press and hold the noise control button (the longer button) for about five seconds, until the light starts flashing white.
It’s easy to be numb to the current state of technology, but the fact your AirPods can translate conversations on the fly is possibly the best encapsulation of “we’re living in the future” of any consumer product right now. AirPods aren’t the only earbuds that can do this, but if you have AirPods Pro 2, AirPods Pro 3, or AirPods 4 with Active Noise Cancellation, you have the power to have a full conversation with someone who doesn’t speak the same language you do.
You can’t just find yourself in a situation where you need Live Translation and use it right away, however. Before you can use the feature, you need to download the target language to your iPhone. To start, go to your AirPods’ settings, then scroll down to “Translation (Beta)” and choose “Languages.” Here, you can tap any of the available languages to download them to your iPhone, which currently include Chinese (Mandarin, Simplified), Chinese (Mandarin, Traditional), English (UK), English (US), French, German, Italian, Japanese, Korean, Portuguese (Brazil), and Spanish (Spain).
Now, when you need it, you can press the stems of your AirPods at once to launch Live Translate. Alternatively, you can open the Translate app, then choose “Live,” then choose the language of the other speaker, as well as your own language. As they speak, you’ll hear the translation in your AirPods, and see the text of the translation on your iPhone’s display.
For well over a year now, AirPods have been cleared by the FDA as clinical-grade hearing aids. It might take other people some time to catch up to the look, but if you need them, the AirPods you already own can be as valid a choice as dedicated (and expensive) hearing aids—assuming your have AirPods Pro 2 or AirPods Pro 3.
In order to take advantage of this perk, you’ll either need to take a hearing test through your iPhone, or upload an audiogram you performed with an audiologist. You’ll find these options in your AirPods’ settings under “Hearing Assistance.”
Adaptive Audio is one of my favorite things about modern AirPods. If you have AirPods Pro 2, AirPods Pro 3, or AirPods 4 with Active Noise Cancellation, Adaptive Audio will either boost or cap external sounds, depending on how loud or soft those sounds are, while still letting you hear everything that’s going on around you.
But if you’ve been using Adaptive Mode, and don’t care for Apple’s default sound levels here, you can adjust them to either let in more or less sound. You’ll find the option in your AirPods settings under “Adaptive Audio.” Here, slide the slider left to block more sound, or right to let in more noise. After a moment, you’ll hear the changes take effect, so you can test which setting sounds best to you.
Back in the day, when you actually had to buy a dedicated camera for photography or videography, that device usually came with a remote so you could snap a picture or start recording while the camera was set up on a tripod. While the selfie has largely killed that practice, there are still plenty of times when you’d benefit from a camera remote for your iPhone, especially if you’re trying to capture a group shot with no extra photographer, or you want to record a video without physically touching your phone.
If you have AirPods 4, AirPods Pro 2, or AirPods Pro 3, you can use your earbuds as remote for your iPhone’s camera. To set it up, open your AirPods’ settings, scroll down, then tap “Camera Remote.” You can either choose “Press Once” to have a quick press act as a remote button press, or “Press and Hold” to have a long-press achieve the same. Note that this will affect how your AirPods respond in other circumstances: If you choose “Press Once,” you can’t use the stem to control media playback; if you choose Press and Hold, you can’t use the stem to activate Siri.
“Smart” tech tries to solve problems, but, often, only makes them worse. AirPods’ “Personalized Volume” is one such example. The problem: When your environment is too noisy, you can’t hear your music; and when things suddenly get quiet, your music might be too loud. So, this feature “intelligently” adjusts the volume based on how quiet or loud your surroundings are. In theory, that’s great; in execution, it’s a nightmare. Since I picked up a pair of AirPods Pro 3, I’ve wondered why my music suddenly gets quiet, or suddenly starts getting louder, without me doing anything to control the volume. If the feature works for you, you can keep it on, but if you’re like me, you’ll want this off.
To disable it, head to AirPods settings, scroll down to “Audio,” then turn off the toggle next to “Personalized Volume.”
Your AirPods are basically fancy Bluetooth headsets. If you’re wearing them, and you get an incoming call, you don’t need to pull out your iPhone. Instead, you can answer that call by pressing an AirPod stem once. But you might not also know you have the ability to customize other stem controls while on the call. By default, pressing the stem once during a call acts as a mute and unmute switch, while pressing twice ends the call. But you can swap these controls if you want to. You’ll find them in your AirPods’ settings under “Call Controls.”
You can use the stem of your AirPods to do things like accept incoming calls or dismiss notifications. However, if your hands are full, you can also use your head to do the same. AirPods 4, AirPods Pro 2, and AirPods Pro 3 support Head Gestures, which lets you nod your head or shake it from side to side to either accept or decline a call, or reply to (or dismiss) a text.
You’ll need to have Announce Calls and Announce Notifications enabled for this feature to work. You’ll find those settings in your iPhone’s “Siri” or “Apple Intelligence & Siri” setting pages. Once enabled, you can go to your AirPods’ settings, scroll down to “Head Gestures,” then enable the toggle to turn on the feature. From here, you can assign the “Accept, Reply” and “Decline, Dismiss” actions to either a head nod, or a head shake.
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Android remains one of the most customizable mobile operating systems out there, despite Google’s recent efforts to rein it in. You don’t necessarily have to root your Android device to get it to do something off script, either. The fix you need might be hidden behind a system menu or Developer Options. You can personalize Android to address common frustrations with speed, battery life, privacy, and the interface as a whole. I’ve compiled ten helpful Android hacks that require no third-party apps, no ADB commands, and no rooting. All you need is the patience to dig through the operating system and tap as required.
Please note that many of these hacks require you to enable Developer Options, Android’s hidden menu of settings. To do so, head to the Settings menu, scroll to About phone, then tap Build number. Tap it seven times to unlock developer mode. (You’ll see a countdown pop-up if you did it correctly.)
Have you ever looked at your battery usage stats and wondered what to do about a specific app that’s draining your battery? Android needs apps to run in the background, sync with the cloud, and check for updates by default. As it does this, it wakes the device and consumes battery in the background.
Android introduced a battery optimization feature in version 6.0 that’s supposed to help with apps that drain too much battery. While it’s helped shut down unused apps, it can be either too aggressive or not aggressive enough at identifying bad apps. And while you can force-close an app to kill it when you notice it’s causing issues, it will likely start up again the next time you reboot your device.
You can manually set an app’s background privileges to the most restrictive setting without deleting or disabling it. In Settings, under Apps, scroll down and tap to view all your apps in a list. Then, tap App battery usage. Here, you will find details about the last time the app was accessed. Tap on the app to adjust its background usage. You can choose to have it optimized by the Android system or unrestricted—something you might use on a wearable to ensure it works properly, for instance. If you want it restricted completely, use the master switch to toggle off background usage. On Samsung devices, this same option is called “sleeping apps” or “deep sleeping apps.
Optionally, you can turn to Developer Options to get more robust control over background processes. Head back to Developer Options, then scroll or search for Background process limit, and from here, you can decide how many background apps fire off at a time.
Even with an ad blocker, background apps can still track your phone use, where you shop, and which ads to show you. You could easily circumvent this by installing a VPN app to route traffic, but that relies on a third party app, and slows down performance. You are better off configuring your phone’s Private DNS settings to filter web traffic through a service of your choosing.
Private DNS seals the request your device makes to look up a website’s IP address, so your carrier can’t see the website you’re visiting. Since that browser data stays hidden, third parties don’t have the data they need to track your habits and, subsequently, target you with ads.
Navigate back to the Settings panel and select Network & Internet > Private DNS. Change the setting to Private DNS provider hostname. You will need to find the URL of a filtering service to link here. Options include Ad Guard, Control D, and Mullvad, which is what I use to block ads in Chrome.
Once you save, this will redirect all DNS requests from every app and browser on your Android device through this specific block list. It should help cut down on ads and tracking servers watching you without cutting down on performance or battery life. This is also a great hack if you’re a parent and your kid has access to an Android device. Use Private DNS to route them away from unsafe sites and adult content.
Sometimes, we accidentally dismiss a notification on Android. If you’re always snoozing and missing out on important pings, you can turn on notification history.
In Settings, under Notifications, tap to turn on Notification history. Now, when you swipe to dismiss your alerts, you can peek in here to see what you forgot or accidentally swiped away. This feature is also helpful for tracking any apps that might be quietly running in the background.
I don’t know what it is about these latest versions of Android, but the text feels either too small or too big when adjusted with the built-in display size settings. You could go into the Accessibility settings to make the text smaller or larger, though it doesn’t affect the rest of the interface much. Or you could deploy Android’s display density (DPI) scaling hack.
This is where the developer options come in handy again. You can use the Smallest Width setting to control the DPI precisely, which scales every interface element up and down. Change the value to a higher number if you want fonts and images to shrink down within the resolution—if it starts in the 400s, for instance, try 500 and work backwards until you like what you see. To make fonts and graphics even larger, start around 300.
When you plug an Android phone into a PC, it defaults to charging the device rather than turning on file transfer. You can change the option from the notification shade, though it adds a few extra steps to something that should be straightforward. Fortunately, you can tweak the USB default behavior to prioritize file transfers when the device is plugged in via USB-C.
In the Developer Options, look for Default USB configuration. Change the setting to File Transfer/Android Auto. Test it by plugging a USB-C cable into a PC to ensure it defaults to file transfer mode.
When you stream music or podcasts through headphones or another external source, the audio isn’t at its best. And while you could adjust the equalizer settings in the app that’s streaming media, it won’t fix much. Your phone and the audio device default to standard codecs rather than high-fidelity ones, which is why it doesn’t sound as crisp and loud as it could.
You can force Android to use the highest-quality codecs whenever the audio device connects in Developer Options. Search for a Bluetooth audio codec and select the highest-quality option supported by your wireless device. Note that you must be connected to the device when you look for this option, or it will appear grayed out. While you’re in the Developer Options, look for Bluetooth Audio Sample Rate and Bits Per Sample. You can adjust these to higher sampling rates if your hardware supports it.
Even on the latest Android flagships, the interface can feel sluggish as you’re moving between screens. That’s because Android deliberately animates between every swipe and flick. But you can eliminate or shorten these animations to make the interface feel more fluid.
In Developer Options, look for Window animation scale, Transition animation scale, and Animator duration scale. You can adjust their defaults; the lower the number, the faster the animation. You can also choose to turn the animation off completely if it’s just too much.
I suffer from migraines, and the brightest background can trigger the pain. I figured out how to force every Android app into dark mode, regardless of whether the developer coded it in.
First, ensure “Dark Theme” is on in your main display settings. Then, navigate to Developer Options and search for Override force-dark. Toggle it on to save your eyes. This feature is also super helpful if you prefer to stare at the screen at night to read. Note that it may cause some apps not to display text properly, in which case, you might want to reserve this ability for when it’s most necessary.
Sometimes you need the display to stay on without timing out. Most Android devices tap out at 30 minutes. But in the developer settings, there is an option to keep the screen “awake” as long as the device is plugged into a power source. I’ve had this feature enabled since I started covering Android phones. It’s the best way to run benchmarks without being affected by random variables.
In Developer Options, search for Stay awake, then switch it on. Note that you will need to turn off the screen when charging the device overnight. Your phone could get hot from being connected and having the screen on for too long.
This has happened to me so many times: my phone rings, I answer it, but the call is routed to my smartwatch instead of my buds. While you could manually go into the phone and select the appropriate Bluetooth device, make it easier on yourself by eliminating the devices that you never want to answer the phone.
In the Settings panel, under Bluetooth, select the offending device. The easiest way to keep it from rearing its ugly head is to find the switch that completely disables phone calls. You should see an option for it at the bottom of the device’s Bluetooth settings. I’ve disabled the Pixel Watch 4 from answering any calls because there’s no instance I’d ever want to take a call from my watch. It’s too public!
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